White River Falls is a waterfall located in north-central Oregon, near Maupin in Wasco County. It is situated on the White River, a tributary of the Deschutes River. White River Falls State Park and the ghost towns to the North are firmly in the middle of nowhere. The towns of Boyd, Dufur, and Friend are remnants of defunct railroads, prospecting, and the old American West. However, hikers living in Southern Washington or in the Portland, Oregon area have options to reach these towns and nearby White River Falls. Visitors can take Highway 14 or Interstate 84 through the Columbia River Gorge to connect to Highway 197 South to reach this waterfall. White River Falls is one of those waterfalls that’s absolutely incredible but rarely visited. It’s in the middle of nowhere and surrounded by high desert sagebrush and mesas resembling an island chain with no water.
White River Falls State Park is about a 2-hour drive from Portland if traveling on I-84, or 2.5 hours if taking Highway 26 East. This waterfall doesn’t receive the high foot traffic of Silver Falls or Multnomah Falls and is enjoyable year-round.
However, for the highest water volume in the falls, I’d recommend visiting in April or May. If arriving in the summer, expect to see nearly bare rocks!
Irrigation and heat dry out the falls every summer. White River Falls State Park is one of the least-visited state parks in Oregon due to its location off the beaten path and desert environment.
Introduction to White River Falls State Park, Maupin, Oregon
Bring your favorite snacks for the long drive in, and don’t be afraid to stop for many photos along the way! There will be several miles of desert driving where it feels like you might not even be moving, but the views are incredible! BE ADVISED: Gas stations are few and far between in these parts. Consider fueling up in The Dalles if coming from the Columbia River Gorge, or in the Madras/Warm Springs area if traveling north. There is one gas station in Maupin called Richmond’s Service that will save you if you forget to fuel up.
What to expect on your drive to White River Falls State Park
We departed Portland and took I-84 East through the Columbia River Gorge. It was amazing to see the climate between the Gorge and the high desert of Northeastern Oregon. As soon as we headed south on Highway 197 out of the Dalles, the lush forests and tall falls gave way to sagebrush and vast fields.
Along the way, we enjoyed unobstructed views of both Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson, with the Three Sisters off in the distance. We save several bald eagles gathering to feed on roadkill and other animals in the desert.
The tiny towns of Dufur, Boyd, and Friend along the journey all offer remnants of a time gone by in the form of Old West and mining ghost towns.
Details of White River Falls and the Condition of the Trails
White River Falls is approximately 90 feet (27 meters) tall and can be viewed from a few different angles. Several trails are accessible from a central trail that begins at the park, just after the parking lot. There is a short, .7-mile hike down to the base of the falls, where visitors can feel the mist and take in the impressive view. This short hike is steep, though, as the parking lot and park are level with the top of the falls.
This path also is not paved, and most of the trails are on dirt. If you have bad knees or other reasons to avoid incline, there is also a viewing platform above the falls that provides a panoramic view of the surrounding area. Views from the upper platform include distant mesas of Devil’s Acres. These views inspire a sense of time travel back to the Old West, where desperados and outlaws may have hidden from Sheriffs and the law.
Are dogs allowed on this trail?
Yes, dogs are allowed at White River Falls but must be kept on a leash. There are steep dropoffs at the viewpoints of White River Falls. If your dog is high-energy and often pulls on the leash, I would recommend giving them a few minutes of play in the open grass of the park before attempting to traverse the steep cliffside trails.
The edge of the upper platform and viewing area is also fenced off. The trails down to the power plant and the lower viewing point are quite steep, so please take that into consideration if you are planning on bringing your canine companions.
Is there a fee for White River Falls State Park?
There is no fee at this state park for the parking lot or the experience. The visit is free, which is another reason why this state park is underserved in its exposure to the public.
Navigating around the falls
White River Falls features two drops, and the first drop at the top is worth the view by itself. The second drop, known as Celestial Falls, is narrower but still picturesque with the surrounding basalt. I certainly recommend bringing trekking poles for this one to help you up and down the dirt paths and inclines should you decide to descend down to the lower viewing point.
An additional dirt path will take visitors around what’s left of an old hydroelectric power plant before leading away from the falls toward Lower White River Falls. Some trails will also take you through the slot canyon that the falls reside on, although those paths will take you directly away from the falls and beyond Lower White River Falls.
Things to do at White River Falls
White River Falls is a popular spot for hiking, picnicking, and photography. Camping is not allowed in the state park. However, there are campground options just south of White River Falls, located along the banks of the Deschutes River. The campgrounds within a 10-minute drive of the falls include the White River BLM campground and Oak Springs Campground. The state parks system strongly discourages kayakers from going over White River Falls due to the technical nature of the rocks below. However, the White River features excellent spots for kayaking and rafting and is popular with experienced paddlers. There are recently remodeled restrooms on-site. Both the bathroom and the parking lot close in the winter, but the park remains open.
There is a growing group of cycling enthusiasts visiting White River Falls due to the paved roads out there and the beautiful scenery along the White River.
History of White River Falls including Formation and Cultural Heritage
White River Falls has a rich history. As mentioned above, it was once home to a Pacific Power and Light Company hydroelectric power plant. One of the first hydroelectric power plants in Oregon, it supplied electricity to Wasco and Sherman Counties from 1910-1963.
The remnants of the plant, including a concrete powerhouse and old transmission lines, can still be seen today. It’s amazing to think that this power plant was so heavily relied upon to distribute power over the miles and miles of empty space. The technology to accomplish this task in the early and mid-1900s is astounding.
It now sits in total disrepair, but some of the original components remain intact. There have been various attempts by local government agencies over the decades to revive the hydroelectric scheme as a tourist attraction in the state park, but each time it comes up for a vote, the locals strike it down.
Can’t say I blame them – why pay for something that only serves tourists? But wow, how amazing would that be?
If taking young children to these falls, please be advised that debris from the power plant is scattered around the lower viewpoint of the falls, and it is quite rusty.
White River Falls is a sacred place for many Native Americans
The falls are also regarded by the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs as a sacred place. The tribes have used the waterfall and surrounding area for thousands of years for fishing, hunting, and gathering. An entry from the WyEast blog provides further context on the Old West (and a ton of photos), and I highly recommend the read:
White River Falls was never envisioned as a park by the white migrants who settled in Tygh Valley and Wasco County in the mid-1800s. In their day, waterfalls were viewed mostly as obstacles to river navigation or power sources to run mills. The falls surely had a more spiritual and harmonious value to native peoples who had lived, fished and gathered along its banks for millennia before white settlers arrived. The Oregon Trail passed through Tygh Valley, and soon the new migrants had cleared the valley and began to build irrigation ditches to bring water to the cleared farmland. By the late 1800s, a grist mill was built at White River Falls, powered by the falling water.
– WyEast Blog
Violent volcanic formations
White River Falls plunges nearly 100 feet over a basalt shelf. As we learned in my last blog about Tamanawas Falls, basalt is the result of extreme volcanic activity. testament to the violent geological forces that carved the region millions of years ago.
The Ghost Towns: Boyd, Dufur, and Friend, Oregon
As an adventurer travels south from The Dalles down Highway 197, they will undoubtedly pass several ghost towns hiding the history of Oregon’s settlement. The first town along the way is Boyd, a sparsely populated mix of semi-recent buildings, and very old ones. Here you will find abandoned buildings, and some residents still remaining, living off of solar power and generators.
Remnants of Oregon’s beginnings remain in a cemetery and general store
Next is Dufur, where a cemetery full of hand-carved headstones from Oregon’s first days of statehood can be observed. At the end of the line is Friend, Oregon, where little remains of this settlement aside from a general store and an old schoolhouse. All three of these towns sprang up around the time Oregon became an official state in 1959. The towns remained sparsely populated but growing in the last of the 1800s.
At the turn of the 20th Century, construction began on The Great Southern Railroad, a 41-mile stretch connecting The Dalles in the Columbia River Gorge to Friend, Oregon at the end of the line. However, with the advent of motor transportation already underway in major cities, The Great Southern Railroad was obsolete before ever entering its prime. The railroad reached its peak by 1910 and was decommissioned in 1921.
The towns of Boyd, Dufur, and Friend, Oregon were once again cut off from civilization. Imagine being a resident of these towns, watching tourists arrive with new inventions, the latest fashion trends, and a glint in their eye. Needless to say, these towns were soon abandoned.
For more on the ghost towns of Central Oregon and White River Falls, check out the full video above.
Final Thoughts
- White River Falls State Park is one of my Top 5 favorites in Oregon! The waterfall is absolutely stunning in the spring, and the two drops viewed from the lower viewing point and power plant transport me back in time.
- This is a great day trip for the entire family, but please watch your step as the trails are steep, not paved, and metal scrap is laying around everywhere around the power plant.
- The hike from Celestial Falls to Lower White River Falls is 100% worth it and very short! Lower White River Falls tumbles 21-feet over beautiful gray stone, and into a stunning emerald pool. I took dozens of videos and pictures here with the place all to myself in early March.
I’ll catch you on the next one, and Happy Trails!