Hiking Lava Canyon near Mount St. Helens is a unique and exhilarating experience. The sometimes precarious trail takes you through a beautiful canyon in Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Lava Canyon is filled with waterfalls, rugged terrain, and remnants of the devastating 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. The entire area has a rich history of ancient volcanic activity.
This hike isn’t for those with a fear of heights! While the views on this trail are spectacular, the trail is carved out of the sheer basalt cliffside and is narrow or almost out in places. If you’re still reading, here are all of the details you could need for this hike.
Where is the Lava Canyon Trail?
The Lava Canyon trailhead is located about 45 minutes east of the town of Cougar, Washington. Lava Canyon was formed by the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens. The drive is therfore filled with up-close views of the volcano. These views include a small bridge over a lahar (lava flow) that drops straight down from the summit.
For most visitors whether coming from north or south, a large portion of the drive will be on Highway 503, an extremely pleasant route that passes Yale Lake, Swift Reservoir, and the turn-off for Ape Cave.
If you’re out in Gifford Pinchot National Forest and plan to camp overnight, Walupt Creek Falls is another untamed gem that is a must-see.
How Difficult is the Lava Canyon Hike?
The trail is rated as moderate on AllTrails due to the short distance in which you’ll see significant elevation gain. However, the most dangerous part of this hike is how the trail hugs the canyon wall, is only 16 inches wide in places, and the rocks are eroding away in other places.
There are no safety rails for the majority of the trail, and deaths have occurred here. However, if you stay on the trail and focus on your steps, any reasonably cautious person can complete this hike without issue. If you’re afraid of heights, you might want to think twice about hiking Lava Canyon.
Lava Canyon Trail Details
The hike is roughly 3.2 miles roundtrip with an elevation gain of around 800 feet. While that may seem small, the elevation gain is accomplished over a short distance, so you’ll certainly feel like you’re climbing quickly.
The trail begins by descending down a series of switchbacks into the canyon, where you’ll be greeted by the roar of the rushing waterfalls. Along the way, you’ll cross several footbridges that offer stunning views of the canyon and its waterfalls. One of the highlights of the trail is the 125-foot-high Lava Canyon Falls, which cascades down a narrow gorge and is truly a sight to behold.
As you continue hiking Lava Canyon, you’ll pass through a section of the canyon that was devastated by the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. The landscape here is stark and barren, with charred trees and boulders strewn about. It’s a sobering reminder of the destructive power of nature.
Are dogs allowed on the Lava Canyon Trail?
Yes, dogs are allowed on this trail, but it is imperative that you keep them on a leash. Mentioning this is a moral quandary of sorts for me. I must say that this trail is very dangerous for dogs because as mentioned, this trail gets very narrow in places and is built on a literal cliffside. One slip and your beloved family member could be lost, forever.
I’ve seen dogs on this trail, and they were small and on leashes. But consider leaving your pet at home for this one.
The best time of year to hike Lava Canyon
The best time for hiking Lava Canyon is May through November. This area receives heavy winter snowfall, and the main access road, Forest Road 83, seasonally closes to protect visitors from the dangers of thick snow on the roads and trails.
Is there a fee for parking at Lava Canyon?
Yes, there is a $5 all-day fee to park at the Lava Canyon trailhead. This is well worth it in my opinion, as alternative parking is sparse, and the trail is incredible. For accepted passes at Lava Canyon, take a look at the Forest Service site.
The suspension bridge remains closed
Only about a mile into the hike, you’ll come upon a suspension bridge that connects the main trail to a viewpoint loop on the other side of the canyon. However, this bridge has been closed for months and deemed unsafe due to needed repairs. You can view the entire bridge from the main trail, but you will see plenty of warning signs and fences telling you to stay on the trail and not climb on the bridge. Even so, the hike is incredible without the detour to the upper viewpoint.
A portion of the trail requires a descent down a tall, metal ladder
Did I mention this hike isn’t great for those with a fear of heights? Near the middle of hiking Lava Canyon is a metal ladder you must climb down, then later, back up, in order to access the lower portion of this trail. The ladder is in excellent condition and reviewed regularly by the Forest Service, but it is quite steep. It’s in the photos below if you’d like to get an idea of what you’d be in for on this trail.
I hate to be a bug-a-boo, but again, your dog will have to be carried down this ladder with you if you plan to hike the trail in its entirety.
The views in my video above are not always achievable from the trail
Before you travel to Lava Canyon for up-close waterfall views: Please know that I flew my drone over the river to bring you these sights. As the trail winds down the canyon wall, you’ll still be able to see many of these waterfalls from the side view.
At the time of this writing in May 2023, there are two open bridges spanning the canyon; one near the beginning of the hike that allows you an up-close view of the falls at the top, and a second bridge at the end of the hike near the bottom. Both of these offer views of the water.
The Violent Volcanic Geological History of Lava Canyon, Washington
The Lava Canyon area, in its current state, was formed by complex geological history that includes volcanic activity, glaciation, and erosion.
The region’s topography was formed over the past 40 million years. The area is part of the Cascade Volcanic Arc, which stretches from northern California to southern British Columbia and is home to a series of active and dormant volcanoes, including Mount St. Helens.
During the last ice age, which ended about 12,000 years ago, glaciers covered the area surrounding Lava Canyon. These glaciers carved out the canyon’s distinctive U-shape and created the rugged terrain that makes the area so popular with hikers.
In 1980, Mount St. Helens erupted, sending a massive blast of ash and debris into the air while triggering a landslide that swept down the north flank of the mountain. This landslide traveled down the Toutle River, which flows near Lava Canyon and caused extensive damage to the surrounding landscape. The main water source through Lava Canyon is the Muddy River, formed by the 1980 eruption. The waters are no longer muddy, making the crystal blue water and brown hues of the rocks almost ironic in name.
In the years following, the Toutle River and its tributaries eroded the loose volcanic sediment deposited in the area. This erosion created steep, narrow canyon walls and a series of waterfalls.
Today, Lava Canyon and the surrounding area continue to be shaped by geological processes, including volcanic activity and erosion.
Mount St. Helens and the Native American Legend of Wy’East, Pahto, and Loowit
The Klickitat people have called this area home for thousands of years. In Klickitat legend, the great spirit known as Klickitat lived on top of a mountain. The mountain was called Takhoma (now known as Mount Rainier). Klickitat had two sons, Wy’East and Pahto. The brothers lived on nearby mountains, now known as Mount Hood (Wy’East) and Mount Adams (Pahto).
Wy’East was a handsome and strong young man who fell in love with a beautiful woman named Loowit. She lived on a nearby mountain called Wyeast’s Sister (now known as Mount St. Helens). Wy’East and Loowit were deeply in love and wanted to be together. Pahto was fiercely protective of his sister and did not approve of the relationship.
One day, Wy’East and Pahto got into a terrible fight over Loowit. The two brothers fought with great ferocity, throwing boulders and causing earthquakes. In the end, Wy’East was victorious, but in his rage, he struck Pahto so hard that he knocked him down. The blow caused a deep crevice to form between the two mountains. Loowit was so devastated by the fight that she turned into a beautiful lake, now known as Spirit Lake.
Realizing the terrible damage he had caused, Wy’East was filled with remorse. He decided to live the rest of his life as a hermit on his mountain. He never forgot about Loowit and visited her often, sometimes causing small eruptions that reminded her of his presence.
Today, Wy’East (Mount Hood) and Pahto (Mount Adams) still stand, separated by the deep crevice caused by their fight. Loowit’s lake (Spirit Lake) is still there. Mount St. Helens is a reminder of the tragic love story between Wy’East and Loowit. The brothers’ fierce rivalry is a powerful reminder of the deep connection between the Native American people and the natural world. The legend has an enduring power in their stories and traditions.
Final Thoughts
Some summary points to help the skimmers prepare for the Lava Canyon Trail near Mount St. Helens:
- Dogs are allowed, but I strongly advise that you leave them at home for this one. The trail is very narrow over steep cliffs in places, and the hike is relatively short.
- Bring plenty of water in the summer months! This hike is short but strenuous.
- Bring bug spray! Plenty of mosquitos in the area starting in the late spring
- The hike features tremendous views of primordial volcanic earth processes. It’s one of my favorites in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest